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Decanter 97pts
We haven’t featured three Champagnes for our Top 50 Best In Show in recent years (though this was the case in both our 2019 and 2020 DWWA competitions), but this blend of 70 per cent Chardonnay and 30 per cent Pinot Noir proved as hard to ignore as its two peers. The 2012 vintage pattern differed from those of 2008 or 2014 – but still demanded both patience and fortitude. April frosts were cruel this year, and for those whose vineyards jumped that hurdle, the cold spring weather that followed was unencouraging. Late summer, though was very dry, and just warm enough to create the nervy ripeness blenders love. You can almost smell that tension in the aromatic restraint of this Champagne, but keep looking and you’ll find much to relish, too, including flowers from the Chardonnay and root spice from the Pinot. Age mingles the two seamlessly. Once in the mouth, this is a Champagne of structure and proportion, and it’s here, too, that you can see the skill and restraint with which all the elements have been chamfered and jointed into place.
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